- On the truck
- PEX coils, manifold, crimp tools
- What gets opened
- Small access holes, patched-ready
- Tested by
- Pressure test before walls close
When you need whole-house repiping
Leaks that keep appearing in different spots are the clearest reason. One pinhole in a copper line is a repair. The fourth one in two years is a pattern. Brown water from the taps, steadily falling pressure, or galvanized steel lines that have narrowed with internal rust also point toward replacement. Polybutylene, the grey plastic pipe fitted in many houses through the eighties and early nineties, is another frequent reason; many insurers ask about it, and its fittings can fail without warning. See spotting Poly-B pipes if you are unsure what you have.
How the job is done
We walk the house and trace the existing supply lines from the meter outward, noting each fixture. Then we propose new routes that keep wall and ceiling openings to a minimum, often running through the basement ceiling and up through closets or chases. PEX is common for its flexibility and fewer joints; copper remains a sound choice where you prefer it.
Work proceeds in sections. Water is usually restored to at least one bathroom and the kitchen at the end of each working day. Openings are left neat and ready for drywall patching. Once all lines are switched over, the old pipe is cut out where reachable, the system is pressure-tested, and each fixture is checked for flow.
Describe the drain, pipe or fixture and get a straight answer on the phone.
Burlington homes and this work
Houses built in Burlington before about 1960, especially near downtown and along the lakeshore, may still carry original galvanized lines in places. Many 1980s homes in Headon Forest, Palmer and Millcroft were built in the Poly-B years. Postwar bungalows in Mountainside and Roseland usually run on copper laid down around 1960. Each of these calls for a slightly different approach.
What affects the scope
- House size and number of bathrooms and fixtures
- Finished versus unfinished basement ceilings
- Whether the main water line from the street is also due for replacement
- Material choice and number of new shut-off valves
- Permit requirements for the work
If the line from the street to the meter is also old, consider pairing the job with water line replacement.
Before we arrive
Clear access to the basement ceiling under kitchens and bathrooms. Empty the cupboards below sinks. Think about which rooms you would like opened last, and let us know of any planned renovations so new lines can suit them.
Living in the house during the job
Most families stay home throughout. Expect some dust in the rooms where openings are made, and a few hours each day with the water off. We cover floors, tape off work areas and tidy up before leaving each evening.
Questions we get on this
Will I be without water for days?
No. We work in sections and restore water at the end of each day in most homes.
PEX or copper?
Both are approved and durable. PEX installs with fewer joints and openings; copper suits those who prefer metal lines.
Do you patch the drywall?
We leave openings clean and square for patching. Finish drywall and paint are usually done by a separate trade.
One call to (365) 414-5748 puts you through to a Burlington plumber.
